Day 6 - September 10
Day 6 Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Atapierca. Last night getting into our Parador was a classic example of how our minds start to dull as the miles pile up. The Camino took us through the medieval village of Santa Domingo de la Calzeda where in the middle there is the standard huge church where we got our stamps for credentials. I was ahead of Amy and told her to make sure she stopped and afterward finished the 500 m to the hotel on the other side of the village. Thirty minutes went by then an hour no sign of Amy. Tina and I were very concerned reaching out to her and learned that she had been circling the village looking for us but on her map application, she forgot to select the pedestrian mode and was instead following a car route they kept circling the city for which there was no entry by motor vehicles. When she finally arrived she was despondent. Tina sent me a message letting me know to wait until Amy had at least one beer to come down!
Two days ago we passed 202 pilgrims and yesterday 181 and today 177. It seems like we are finally getting to a place on the Camino that there aren’t freight trains of pilgrims along the trail. I’m amazed at the eco system built up on the Camino. We are meeting many Americans who are tapped into it to facilitate the journey. Bags are transported from town to town for only 5 euros. Hotel reservations are facilitated for bulk rates and rides are provided for anyone wanting to just say, “I’ve had enough”.
Weather has been incredible so far with lows in the 50s and highs in the 80s, low humidity which is welcome relief for someone from Jacksonville Florida. Tomorrow there is a heat wave coming - temps in the high 90’s and then rain for the rest of the week. We are both happy to be getting a chance to experience all types of weather on the trip.
Christina found a guest house in a the small village of Atapuera which is also a UNESCO heritage site. A couple bought the inn a year ago and Tina spent the afternoon getting to know the couple. We have the last room which is in the attic with 3 little beds in a room. We share a bathroom with everyone on the floor. The husband cooks all the meals and the wife serves and manages the front end. They were overbooked so the couple will sleep on a roof deck to make room for the overbooked pilgrims. They served dinner for 15 euros WITH wine and it was all home cooked on his wood burning outdoor oven while she served and bussed everyone in the small dining room which totaled 24 patrons. I imagine they are cleaning up until midnight and then turn around to serve breakfast at 7am. That is heroic.
Amy, Tina and I are totally wiped out after another 33 mile day and can’t wait to crash for the night. Until tomorrow.
Cheers,
David..
