Day 2 - September 6
Roncesvalles to Pamplona. After our first days run over the Pyrenees into the medieval village of Roncesvalles, Gabe, Shelby, Amy and I with Christina’s help drove the two hours back to San Sebastián where Monica was waiting with pinchot’s and a choice of ice cold beers or bubbles! After a local dinner at Goikos hamburger bar we all retired by 10 PM knowing we a 5 AM wake up call was lurking. Day 2 would be big one because of the additional 2.5 hour overhead to get back to where we left off and run for 10 hours - not efficient use of time when every minute counts.
We made it back for 9:30am start and headed down from the Pyrenees towards Pamplona. Quick note for anyone doing the Camino - highly recommend even if hiking to go by Roncasvelles the first day and go another 2 miles to the first village where there are a few nice little auberges and restaurants. There are only two options in Roncasvelles - a parador which was sold out and the hostel which is dormitory style living which had a line waiting for entrance and a pungent odor of hikers long on the trail and few clothes waiting to beadmitted. Amy and I have agreed we are too old for this type of living. Or too spoiled as we rationalize we can’t afford to be up all night as people snore all around us!
The trails are exceptional coming down to Pamplona. Medieval villages dot the Camino every 5km or so with hostels and restaurants that cater to the pilgrims. Heavily wooded, pine needles, paved areas, jutting mountain views, crisp air - it doesn’t get any better than this.
Christina was waiting for us in Zubiri around 21km from our starting point. Both Amy and I felt great, finally getting down to business after the first day’s trial run. Most pilgrims are doing 1 town per day and we have learned they start out early and arrive 1-3pm where they check into the auberges and begin the procession of wine, cheese, meats and conversation with other pilgrims that lasts into the night.
Amy and I rolled in around that time as we had gotten our late start and joined the fun with a beer and lunch and a small tavern meeting a local artist who told us of the big steel and stone structures he has made for the Camino and some in the US.
We left Zubiri at 2pm for the next 25km to Pamplona where Christina would head to find lodging for the night. We have learned that if you miss that early window of 1-3pm, rooms sell out and she luckily found the last two room in Pamplona - lucky for us at the only 4 star hotel!
On our way into town, Amy and I ran into a group of young kids jumping in a river off a bridge. The girls, years more mature than the shy boys who slinked away, came up to us excited to practice their english. What an interesting conversation with them all! They spoke 4 languages, considered themselves “basques” and not Spanish while enjoying their final day before schools start tomorrow.Gabe and his friend Mike ran a portion of the Camino a few years ago and counted the pilgrims they passed. He started yesterday and Amy and I continued today: 272 passed!
I’m thinking about whether this can be done solo or without support. In Brazil it would be extremely difficult but I’m starting to think it might be possible with a light pack…
All for today as we head out into the walled old city in Pamplona to find a good meal before we pass out.
Cheers,
David.
