Day 3 - September 7
Day 3: Pamplona to Estella. A few notes for anyone looking for Intel, while there was a lot of water available through spigots along the way, they seemed to dry up between Zubiri and Pamplona. On a day where temperatures reached in the 90s it was a grind to make it into town with the amount of water that we had and we heard of a number of pilgrims tapping out because of dehydration in Pamplona. There are water sources coming from fountains along the way where pilgrims refill.
Another major consideration is the lodging; there were very few available beds in Pamplona by the time Amy and I arrived. If you were hiking and planning to arrive between 12 and 2 PM, I think the odds are better but after that it is sketchy and we are now looking into trying to reserve ahead if possible. We are both amazed as we enter the villages how pilgrims are queued up outside the hostels waiting to be admitted on first come first serve basis for prices as low as 10 euros a night.
Day 3 is getting down to business. Body is registering this is not a one day long run and quads and feet are hurting for both of us. On a positive note, my covid or cold has been finally overridden by the load of the running so that congestion and coughing are fading away. A tough 31 miles with close to 4K of climbing brought us to Estella, a tiny medieval village wedged between two mountain ranges. Most of the Camino follows water paths as settlements did thousands of years ago.
Amy was told by a few friends to take her time on the Camino….enjoy the experience. So we passed 316 pilgrims today in an energized effort to “enjoy” the Camino. At the same time earlier on we were passed for the first time in 3 days by 3 young Spaniards. As they ran by me uphill I tried my best Spanish and said, “Camino?” Thinking for sure they were out for a torrid uphill run for the day. They responded, “Si, Compostella” and that was our first -3 on the trail. We love the spirit, camaraderie and commitment that all of our fellow pilgrims share on the trail. At the same time, we are committed to hammering out the miles in a sustainable and efficient way while maximizing our experiences in our own way.
The town of Estella was founded in 1090 when the place, lying by the fortified settlement of Lizarra, was granted a charter by the Pamplonese king Sancho Ramirez. The town became a landmark on The Camino thriving on the privileged location and the melting pot of Francos called in by Navarrese kings, Jews and the original local Navarrese inhabitants. The wealth resulted in a development of Romanesque architecture, Church of San Pedro de la Rua, Palácio de Los Reyes de Navarra and many other landmarks. It was also the headquarter of Don Carlos who was proclaimed king here in 1833 and was a major H! For the Carlist Party who in 1876 surrendered the town.
All for today as the mileage increases tomorrow…
Cheers,
David.
